Cold Mold RTV type Silicon Mold Rubber Compound Pewter Tin / Lead Metal Cast Kit

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Cold Mold RTV type Silicon Mold Rubber Compound Pewter Tin / Lead Metal Cast Kit:
$60.00

Now youcan make a rubber mold for casting pewter or other low melt alloys without heat and without mixing andpouring liquids. This 0% shrinkage silicone rubber is a 2-part putty that yousimply knead together and then press into a standard mold frame to cure underpressure, without heat for 30 minutes. Packaged in two containers, part A andpart B, weighing a total of 1.3 lbs.

Working Time:2 min. (approx)
Cure Time:30 min. (approx)
Durometer:35
Shrinkage:0%
Tensile Strength:400 psi
Tear Strength:55 ppi
Elongation:375%

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1- Packaged in two containers, part A and part B Cold Mix

20 - AcornNuts which you will install between the two halves of an unvulcanized rubber mold toinsure the proper orientation of the two halves. Because of their six-sidedconfiguration, Acorn Nuts have a holding ability superior to any other form ofmold locator.

1- Blade handle shown is used with mold cutting blades.

10 - MoldCutting Blades very popular with mold makers for their sharpness

1- Tweezers in the style of the Swiss Boley AA tweezers.Anti-magnetic stainless steel with very fine points. 5" length.

STEP 1.Prepare atleast 6 brass locators by folding each of the four prongs on each locatortoward the center of the locator. After bending the prongs, press each locatoronto a flat surface so that the prongs are all flush with the table surface.Set aside.

STEP 2.Weigh equalquantities of Part A (light blue) and Part B (purple) so that when combined,they fill approximately half of your mold frame. It is recommended that theamounts be weighed for accuracy to ensure proper curing of the compound.

STEP 3.Rapidly kneadtogether Parts A and B until a uniform color is attained. You have a totalworking time of approx. 2 minutes, so work quickly. Before proceeding to thenext step, be sure that the compound is entirely mixed with no streaks ofcolor. Set aside a small amount of compound to fill the locators (step 4).

STEP 4.Workingquickly, press the compound into the mold frame making sure that the compoundreaches the bottom of the frame (the frame should be on top of one of the moldplates). Position your model in the center of the frame and press it into thecompound until the top edge of the model is nearly flush with the surface ofthe compound.

STEP 5.Fill thelocators with the compound set aside in step 2. Position one locator at eachcorner at least 1/8" away from the side walls of the mold frame. Placeyour sprue button and rod into position, making sure that the sprue rod is atleast 1/8" away from the model. Press down half-way. As the compoundbegins to cure it may be necessary to hold down your model to prevent it fromrising above the surface.

STEP 6.Lightly brush talcpowder or baby powder works fine, over the entire surface of the rubber andblow off any excess powder from the surface. It is not necessary to wait forthe compound to cure completely before continuing.

STEP 7.Repeat steps 2and 3, using slightly more compound than is necessary to fill the rest of themold frame. Again, make sure that the compound is mixed completely.Thereis no need to set aside compound for the locators.

STEP 8.Press thecompound into the mold frame. The top of the compound should be slightly abovethe top edge of the mold frame.

STEP 9.Place thesecond mold plate on top of the mold frame, pressing the plate down with thepalm of your hand. Although Cold Mold Compound cures without heat, slightpressure is needed to ensure a good mold. Pressure can be applied to your moldin any one of the following ways:

1.Place the mold frame in acoldvulcanizerand apply pressure until the mold plates touch the top and bottom of the moldframe. This is the preferred method because it applies even pressure over theentire mold frame.

2.Use an adequate number ofC-clamps or similar clamps to bring the mold plates into contact with the moldframe.

3.Place a heavy weight, such asseveral large books, on top of the mold frame.

STEP 10.Afterapproximately 30 minutes under pressure the compound should be completely curedand the mold can now be removed from the mold frame. Remove the plates fromeither side of the frame and push the mold out with your fingers. Using a pairof scissors, remove the excess compound that has extruded between the frame andmold plates.

STEP 11.To separate themold, simply pull the two halves apart. Remove the model from the mold, flexingthe mold if necessary.

STEP 12.Once the modelis removed, gates are cut into both halves of the mold to join the sprue to themodel cavity. Vents can now be cut into the mold to ensure complete fillingduring white metal casting.

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