Cold Mold Rtv Type Silicon Mold Rubber Compound Pewter Tin / Lead Metal Cast Kit For Sale
Now you can make a rubber mold for casting pewter or other low melt alloys without heat and without mixing and pouring liquids. This 0% shrinkage silicone rubber is a 2-part putty that you simply knead together and then press into a standard mold frame to cure under pressure, without heat for 30 minutes. Packaged in two containers, part A and part B, weighing a total of 1.3 lbs.
- Working Time:2 min. (approx)
- Cure Time:30 min. (approx)
- Tensile Strength:400 psi
- Tear Strength:55 ppi
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1- Packaged in two containers, part A and part B Cold Mix
20 - Acorn Nuts which you will install between the two halves of an unvulcanized rubber mold to insure the proper orientation of the two halves. Because of their six-sided configuration, Acorn Nuts have a holding ability superior to any other form of mold locator.
1- Blade handle shown is used with mold cutting blades.
10 - Mold Cutting Blades very popular with mold makers for their sharpness
1- Tweezers in the style of the Swiss Boley AA tweezers. Anti-magnetic stainless steel with very fine points. 5" length.
STEP 1.Prepare at least 6 brass locators by folding each of the four prongs on each locator toward the center of the locator. After bending the prongs, press each locator onto a flat surface so that the prongs are all flush with the table surface. Set aside.
STEP 2.Weigh equal quantities of Part A (light blue) and Part B (purple) so that when combined, they fill approximately half of your mold frame. It is recommended that the amounts be weighed for accuracy to ensure proper curing of the compound.
STEP 3.Rapidly knead together Parts A and B until a uniform color is attained. You have a total working time of approx. 2 minutes, so work quickly. Before proceeding to the next step, be sure that the compound is entirely mixed with no streaks of color. Set aside a small amount of compound to fill the locators (step 4).
STEP 4.Working quickly, press the compound into the mold frame making sure that the compound reaches the bottom of the frame (the frame should be on top of one of the mold plates). Position your model in the center of the frame and press it into the compound until the top edge of the model is nearly flush with the surface of the compound.
STEP 5.Fill the locators with the compound set aside in step 2. Position one locator at each corner at least 1/8" away from the side walls of the mold frame. Place your sprue button and rod into position, making sure that the sprue rod is at least 1/8" away from the model. Press down half-way. As the compound begins to cure it may be necessary to hold down your model to prevent it from rising above the surface.
STEP 6.Lightly brush talc powder or baby powder works fine, over the entire surface of the rubber and blow off any excess powder from the surface. It is not necessary to wait for the compound to cure completely before continuing.
STEP 7.Repeat steps 2 and 3, using slightly more compound than is necessary to fill the rest of the mold frame. Again, make sure that the compound is mixed completely.There is no need to set aside compound for the locators.
STEP 8.Press the compound into the mold frame. The top of the compound should be slightly above the top edge of the mold frame.
STEP 9.Place the second mold plate on top of the mold frame, pressing the plate down with the palm of your hand. Although Cold Mold Compound cures without heat, slight pressure is needed to ensure a good mold. Pressure can be applied to your mold in any one of the following ways:
STEP 10.After approximately 30 minutes under pressure the compound should be completely cured and the mold can now be removed from the mold frame. Remove the plates from either side of the frame and push the mold out with your fingers. Using a pair of scissors, remove the excess compound that has extruded between the frame and mold plates.
STEP 11.To separate the mold, simply pull the two halves apart. Remove the model from the mold, flexing the mold if necessary.
STEP 12.Once the model is removed, gates are cut into both halves of the mold to join the sprue to the model cavity. Vents can now be cut into the mold to ensure complete filling during white metal casting.
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