Rare Antique Victorian Japanese Import Silk 'at Home Gown' C1890's Storks
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Rare Antique Victorian Japanese Import Silk 'at Home Gown' C1890's Storks:
Rare antique Victorian Japanese import silk 'at home gown' c1890's Storks!
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English speakers only please.
'A Gown Madam? An Ensemble? Or perhaps a beautiful skirt? Do browse at your leisure.... For the evening or for visiting, M'Lady? I'm sure we will have something to your liking in the GOWN & COSTUME Department of Poppies Cottage ...'
If you are fortunate enough to own a copy of The Kyoto Institute 'Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century' Volume 1,[Taschen 2005] you will be able to read about this gown in great detail from pages 284 - 303 where there is a large section about the Japanese influence on Western clothing from the second half of the 19th Century, when Japan opened it's trade to the rest of the World.
The Japanese style influenced our great designers such as Worth & Doucet, and iconic embroidered motifs were used over and over again in the Japanese style.
Storks were one of these motifs.
A Japanese Company called 'Shobey Silkstore' began to produce 'at home gowns' ordressing gowns for Western ladies as early as 1875, and these were often sold by Liberty's of London.
The silk used was Habutae.
You can see an actual advertisement for these gowns on page 298 of the above book.
In my experience, this garment selling today is rare. It has no label but could well have been sold at Liberty's.
Not perfect, but in good condition and displaying beautifully, the gown has the extra enhancement of beingpart ofthe late 19th Century revival of the Sack-back, with a deeply pleated trained back in the 18th Century style.
Lots to offer!
So then, when one see's the profuse hand embroidery of storksit is a sight to behold!
The gown is brown fine silk, with the palest blue silk quilted lining. It is interlined with a lightweight wadding, and fastens with toggles of silk. A large silk tasselled rope is used to wrap around the waist, although I prefer this to simply hang to the side.
Despite giving the Victorian lady a little more comfort than the average 'going out gown', she would still have worn full corsets below, being able to simply loosen them a little!
Beautiful to look at, on first sight there appears nothing wrong. However, please note the following faults that I have tried to show on the photographs as well -
The base of the pocket stitching and one belt tab have come unstitched.
Leading vertically down from the bottom of the pocket, there is a series of minor splitting where the gown has been stored folded.
To the other side skirt, for approx 10" up from the hem, there is another area with minor splitting plus a group of moth holes, where these critters have been trying to reach the interlining! A small amount of isolated moth holes can be found elsewhere as well.
The collar also has a couple of nibbles and a little wear.
There is soiling to the exterior of the gown at the hem, especially to the train. This has to be poor storage as well, because the lining is hardly affected and generally very clean.
Finally, for the flaws, this is difficult to describe, but I could see white stitches at the bodice seams and wondered if it was altered. A seam split to the lining at the back neck enabled me to see that in fact, the gown was first constructed with cotton tacking stitches, then machine sewn in black [inside.] I think that the black thread must be silk, as the machine stitches are fragile and easily pull apart without damaging the silk at all.
I mention the last point although it hadly shows, because the new owner will need to care for it very well to ensure that seams do not come under tension.
These flaws are far outweighed by the wonderful embroidery which is as good as it can be, the strong silk fastens & tassels, the perfectly formed sack-back and very good underarms.
The delightfully puffed upper sleeves, leading to curved arms & deep cuffs all give a typical shapeof the lady of the 1890's.
In short, a wonderful collectors piece, far too special to be worn, but will fit most mannequins size 10 - 12.
The lace at the neck is not part of the gown.
*****Please note that Royal Mail have radically changed their posting and shipping prices. All very confusing! I will ship overseas but please note that shipping prices are ESTIMATES. I never aim to profit from shipping.
***** UK buyers should ignore the postage price shown. The actual cost is £11.80 it cannot be sent to you for less. This is a non-profit postage price!
Please do take a look in my shop if you have the time!
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