Vintage 50s 60s MR. HENRI Autumn Haze Emba Mink Fur Wide Brim Hat Fedora

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Vintage 50s 60s MR. HENRI Autumn Haze Emba Mink Fur Wide Brim Hat Fedora:
$89.60

Beautiful vintage genuine mink fur wide-brim hat (matching mink stole is listed in a separate sale.)
The fur is a soft brown color and has long silky guard hairs and soft, thick underfur.
Inside finishing: Lined with knit jersey.
Label(s): Original Model by Mr. Henri New York
Size: No size label (please see measurements).

Inside circumference: 21\"
Outside diameter: about 14\" side to side and front to back
Brim width: 4.5\" front, 4\" sides, 3\" back
Crown height: about 5\"

Condition: Excellent vintage condition. Fur is soft and supple with long silky guard hairs and thick underfur. No rips or worn spots. (Matching mink stole is listed in a separate sale.)

Vintage Chamber items are stored in a smoke-free, pet-free Environment. I check things thoroughly and don\'t sell items that have unpleasant odors, unsightly alterations, or need repairs to be wearable.

Payment is due through PayPal within 3 calendar days from end of sale or choosing \"Buy it Now\" to avoid an Unpaid Item Case.

An invoice is usually not sent unless an adjustment needs to be made for combined shipping or other reasons.

USPS Domestic Shipping Services and Cost:

• Shipping cost is shown near the top of this listing.

• Shipping by USPS Priority Mail, Parcel Select, or First Class Mail for certain lightweight items.

Ship only to U.S. addresses shown in PayPal.

Handling time is usually one business day. If payment is made on Friday, item may not ship until the following Monday. Please allow an extra day if payment is made on a legal holiday or the day before.

Combined shipping is available if you win multiple sales ending on or near the same date. Wait for a combined invoice before paying. Please keep in mind that it may not be cost-effective or safe to combine certain items.

Signature Confirmation will be included for items selling for $250 or more, and may be included for certain items under $250.

Sorry, no international shipping.

I offer \'s hassle-free returns. Feel free to contact me before opening a return if you would like to discuss any problems with the item. Please see \"Shipping and payments\" tab for more information on my return policy.

Thank you for visiting VintageChamber.

Optional Reading for the Curious: I started collecting vintage clothing, accessories, sewing supplies, and other vintage items more than 15 years ago -- storing them away until I retired and had time to do something with them. When that time came, I decided to become an online seller of vintage fashion and other vintage treasures. Before retiring, I spent a lot of years working as a grant/proposal writer and graphic designer, but I\'m an old-school home economics grad from the 1960\'s and have been sewing for more than 50 years.

I\'m now a one-person business and do everything myself including buying, researching, fixing, cleaning, steaming, pressing, photography, sale listings, packaging, shipping, and bookkeeping. It\'s all a labor of love and I appreciate my great customers who keep me going.

Where I find my vintage items: I find most of my vintage treasures within a few miles from my home at estate sales, antiques shops, and thrift stores. I live in a rural farming community with a state university nearby that has students and faculty from all over the world. I\'m also within an hour\'s drive from Minneapolis/St. Paul where there are a gazillion places to find vintage treasures.

I once bought a $2 vintage tuxedo shirt that was starched and packaged by a commercial laundry; then when I opened it later, I found tucked inside a pair of 18 kt gold Tiffany cufflinks that the laundry had returned with the shirt. I\'ve also found a few forgotten treasures inside pockets, so I always check pockets before deciding to pass up a vintage garment.

How I handle condition issues: The main down side to collecting vintage clothing (aside from all the pieces I pass up because they\'re too damaged) is that many of the pieces I purchase need spot cleaning/laundering and repairs, or have existing repairs or alterations that weren\'t done properly, such as uneven seams, poorly-sewn hems, or sloppily-attached buttons, hooks, and snaps.

Maybe because of my home economics background, I can\'t resist fixing split seams, buttons, hooks or snaps hanging by a thread, and other condition issues -- even if it means putting in more time than the garment is worth. I have a large collection of vintage sewing supplies and notions, including buttons, metal zippers, hooks, snaps, thread, seam binding, ribbons, laces, trims, and beads that I use so repairs are consistent with the garment\'s age.

When needed, I gently hand-launder washable garments, iron/press on the wrong side (or with a pressing cloth on the right side) and/or use a steamer depending on the fabric and construction. I have a variety of vintage tailor\'s hams, sleeve rolls, and pressing mitts. If I need to press a seam, I use a sleeve roll so the edges of the seam allowances don\'t leave an impression on the outside of the garment.

For garments that can\'t be laundered, I spot clean when needed unless it\'s a rare designer piece or a delicate embellished piece. I rarely have things professionally dry cleaned because there isn\'t a dry cleaner in my area that will take special care with vintage garments.

I\'m very meticulous and don\'t sell vintage garments that are dirty, have unpleasant odors, need repairs, or have old repairs that were poorly done, (except on rare occasions when I list an item \"as is\" because of its uniqueness or rarity). Keep in mind, however, that vintage garments usually can\'t withstand the stress on seams and fabric that new garments can.

How I package items for shipping: I\'m fussy about folding and packaging garments in a way that minimizes excess wrinkles. If there are buttons or buckles that might leave marks or impressions, I cover them with bubble wrap. Then I carefully and neatly fold the garment with acid-free tissue paper -- as many sheets as it takes to cover the full length of the garment. Then I put the folded item in a new plastic bag with the packing slip, seal it with tape, and then put it inside a box or mailing envelope.

In rare circumstances, when even one sheet of tissue paper bumps the weight up to a higher shipping cost, I\'ll skip the tissue paper if the garment is sturdy enough, and just use a plastic bag inside the box or envelope.

I don\'t usually use tissue paper for voluminous dresses and heavy coats -- I put them in a plastic garment bag and roll them up, then put them inside another plastic bag, and then in a box.

I don\'t have a good source nearby for used boxes and envelopes, so I almost always use new boxes and envelopes (USPS Priority Mail boxes and envelopes, brown corrugated boxes, and poly, Tyvek and padded mailing envelopes).

Please contact me if you have any questions.

VintageChamber / VintageChambers